Can't afford a new ABS unit??  Don't scrap the car yet!!
(This is content of an article I posted to the main list)

My ABS unit failed also. Since I hate ABS anyways, I decided to remove the unit completely.
It is fairly simple, and will only cost about $10 to accomplish. First, you will need to get some
rental tools from an auto parts store. You will have to put down a $20 or so deposit for each tool,
but should receive a full refund when you return them. You will need 1) a tubing bender, 2) a
Brake line flaring tool, and (3) a tubing cutter. In addition, you will need (5) 3/16" male brake line
fittings, (1) 3/16" female-female coupler, and (1) 3/16" 3-way female 'T'. Remove all the lines from
the ABS unit with a 10mm wrench, and remove the unit. You will see that the lines pass out of the
brake master cylinder, into the proportioning valve, and into the ABS unit, and then to each
caliper. The rear calipers have only one fitting on the ABS unit, since this line is split to both rear
calipers at a T under the rear of the car. First, locate the line that goes to the rear calipers. You
need to cut this line, leaving enough length to reach the proportioning valve next to the master
cylinder. Reuse the factory 10mm male fitting, flare the end, and attach the line into the rear side
of the proportioning valve. That’s the easy one – your rear brakes are done. The front, however,
will require a few more connections. Next, you will need to cut the line coming out of the
proportioning valve that feeds the front side of the ABS unit. Leave about 10 inches of line or
so (you can judge this length better once you see where this is headed). Attach a 3/16" male
fitting to the end of this line, and insert into one opening on the 3-way ‘T’. Now, find the line that
feeds the left front caliper (driver’s side). You will need to cut this line, and attach a 3/16" end, so
that it reaches the 3-way T. Now, you need to connect the right front caliper. This requires an
extra step, since this line only reaches the ABS unit. You will need to use the female-female
coupler to extend this line to reach the 3-way T fitting. If you plan this early in your project, you
can use one of the lines that is already run across the firewall, and is attached in the factory clips.
Make sure you use the tubing bender for all of the line you modify, and be extra careful with the
flaring technique. After cutting, the tube must be de-burred both internally and externally to insure
proper flaring. This job only takes an hour or so, and the results are excellent. Turbo access is
greatly improved (especially is you have a large aftermarket turbo), and braking performance is
not reduced. If you wanted to do a ‘cleaner’ job, you could switch to a master cylinder from a
non-ABS car. This master cylinder has 3 outputs (one for the rear, and one for each front caliper)
so that the T fitting is no longer used. The coupler for the front right caliper could be avoided by
running an entire new line directly to the caliper. However, the above instructions create a very
clean installation that is completely legal. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU USE
COMPRESSION FITTINGS! They will not pass inspection, and furthermore, it is plain stupid.
We are stopping ROTARY power here, right? : )

Good luck in your endeavors. Anyone may feel free to email me for more questions.